LFW: PRINCESS JULIA ON BLOW PRESENTS
Princess Julia was big on the punk scene, big on the New Romantic scene, big on the house scene, big on electroclash scene, big on the myspace scene, and is currently the music editor of both i-D and UK GQ Style. She is asked to DJ at every fashion party and has such good style she's constantly photographed by the magazines the genuinely creative fashion people actually respect. So, who better to review a show?
The African hat ruled.
Today I went in blind and had absolutely no idea of who I was going to see. I like a challenge, so here we are in the fashion flurry of 'off schedule' London Fashion Week and the Blow Presents show bravely steps out with four new designers, situated at the back of St. Luke's Church on Old Street. 'Oh, this is good' I think as I manage to queue-jump through the long line of style-conscious fashion folk, because we had some sort of priority pass, even though we get knocked back, while the sponsors file in. So I light up, whoops, then Mr Blow himself suddenly tells me I can't smoke inside as he swishes us in. I like that hands-on approach. Two puffs forward and we're in, settled in the front row next to style visionary Karon Binns. She's the sort of fahion personage the celeb mags know nothing about but all the insider types love. So I listen carefully, watch and learn, watch and learn.
The first collection on the runway is from Jane Bowlers. A bright and subtly colorful line of shredded capes and twiddly bits worn over dip-dyed body suits, and customized big knickers. Bowlers thing is using cheap materials, plastic mainly, and transforming them through a heat process creating these eye-catching pieces. It's a little bit kooky, majorly artistic, and certainly a talking point. And the glasses rule.
Fanny and Jessy, on the other hand, have a snappy line in separates, saucy slacks, flappy bits, the return of the fanny wrap, plus floaty printed dustercoats. Lawd, sorry I've made it all sound a bit 'Entertaining Mr. Sloan'. Knitwear comes with mohair big knit tanks and matching ankle socks. These collections certainly are diverse, this is what I'd call a strong but feminine look. Think Grey Gardens.
In complete contrast to the two previous collections, the work of Shinsuke Mitsouka's label Liberum Arbitrum is futurist industrial and black with silver zippered metallic accents. It's all very fashion goth—leather straps, distressed nylon bodies, ping shoulders. I also loved the old-school wedding dress finale.
Finally, Eleanor Ameroso featured trails of thread and chunky strips of gigantic rope, precisely covering the girls' modesty, but exposing almost everything else. Big knickers are essential here.
Summary: The Kufi is seriously in.
TEXT: PRINCESS JULIA
PHOTOS: MATT KING
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